London Fashion Week, Day Three

London Fashion Week, Day Three




22/02/15

The Prowslter’s fashion editor, Sophie Donaldson’s dispatches from London Fashion Week 2015. For more of the best fashion content, visit our real-time digital content hub HERE

It was a utilitarian beginning at Soojin Lee, with camouflage and khakis opening the show but it was not long until the earthy shades gave way to blooming florals. The structured wool overcoats and stiff camo bombers were followed by a far more feminine affair, the first of many floral prints appearing on a lady like structured tea dress. A sharp digital landscape print on a silk tunic dress paved the way for more abstract floral prints, as silk column dresses sashayed down the runway, a combination of geometric shapes and flowers scattered down the length of the floor grazing gowns.

Flowers continued to spring up in all manner of places, on soft chiffon blouses in a muted watercolour petal print pared with more abstract geo-floral printed skirts, and on a blush pink coat, the sleeves and hem covered in a tangle of embroidered blooms. Delicate circular ruffles and fine knife pleats were perched on shoulders, neck and hemlines throughout the show, the gathered segments of fabric dancing on the breeze as the models glided down the runway. Blocks of navy and red, as well as bolts of khaki, in double breasted overcoats and tailored blazers with nipped in waists grounded the frivolous florals, making for an a collection as powerful as it was pretty.

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Three emerging Eastern European designers presented an eclectic offering of dynamic shapes, colours and prints at Fashion Scout. Ukrainian Anna K led the way with a kitsch, doll like collection of whimsical dresses and structured separates. Texture ran riot through the collection by way of a laddered loose knit, metallic silver foil, springy felted wool and fine tweed. Centred around the narrative of The Little Match Stick Girl, the colour palette was divisible by the tragedy and hope of the story- navy and grey on the tweed coats and full smock dress, then neon orange, shocking pink and the luminous silver foil on the mini skirts and the oversized doll like dress, finished with a large, foppish bow knotted loosely at the neck.

Pentatonica’s clean, pared back collection took a inspiration from the melancholia of lonlieness- deep purple, grey, lilac and dusty pink coloured the collection of layered separates. Skinny trousers wrapped themselves down over the feet consuming the wearer whilst the tops and jackets were similarly engulfing the body by way of vast cowl necks and draped hoods. Structured elements contrasted with the soft, as angular, symmetrical bodices and collars were tempered by loosely belted waistlines and sheaths of fabric that emerged as long skirts. The final look, a chiffon gown that cast aside any hint of harshness, was all full bells sleeves and sweeping skirts that dreamily closed the show.

Dinara Nurlan’s collection ‘Herbarium’ was a lesson in cool layering and knit accents, as oversized sweaters slouched downwards, the chunky knit trim on the hem grazing mid thigh. Hemlines continued to jump from floor, to thigh, to knee. Trousers were cropped at the ankle or mid calf, the varying lengths layered with skirts and and tunic tops. Sock and tubular fingerless gloves were chunky knits, as were loose jumper dresses that were pared with cropped vests and fluttering full length skirts. The muted colour pallets of white, dove grey and green were a nostalgic take on childhood memories, the skeletal leaf print a hand drawn interpretation of child like painted leaves.

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