London Fashion Week, Day One

London Fashion Week, Day One


The Prowslter’s fashion editor, Sophie Donaldson sends her first dispatch from London Fashion Week 2015. For more of the best fashion content, visit our real-time digital content hub HERE


Recap: Day One, London Fashion Week

Words: Sophie Donaldson

As the season dictates, Somerset House has once again been taken over by Planet Fashion. Bloggers, street stylers, editors and Alexa Chung all descended on the grounds to take in the first day of shows and presentations.

As the hopeful style icons of the future clustered around the tents hoping to be snapped by hovering photographers, the real action was in full swing inside. Daks sent out little drummer girls and boys, all wrapped up in double breasted coats and stiff capped hats. Patent leather accents ran across the collection, from a highly coveted pair of dove grey ankle booties, to ankle skimming overcoats. The colour blocked red, black and white was broken up by a watercolour floral digital print that covered billowing blouses and flares. The standout piece was the velvet blood-red floor length coat, perhaps rivalled only by the double breasted boiler suits the boys strutted out in. It was sixties mod meets seventies sex, with belts slung low as models walked to a honey coated mash up of disco beats.


Over in the Waldorf Hilton, Paul Costelloe worked every proportion possible, culminating in a show with such diverse silhouettes almost every decade was covered. Mini smock dresses were gathered densely at the shoulders and bust so the thick brocade bloomed from the model’s frames and floated daintily around them as they walked. In vibrant green, then purple, the colour palette softened into another brocade and a tartan in grey before gleefully swinging back into a vibrant tangerine and warming mustard. Waistlines were cinched in and hem lines grazing the floor just as dropped waists and thigh skimming coats passed by. Shoulders then got the treatment, with a black velvet mini dress topped with full, angular shoulders that were screaming out for an Eighties revival. Necklines were not neglected in this exploration of proportion, with vast funnel necks that gracefully engulfed the décolletage, shawl collars that were draped wide across the collar bones, and completely off the shoulder necklines on the brocade mini dresses.

An arching rainbow beckoned upon entering Fyodor Golan’s show, the vibrant streaks of colour hinting at what was to come. The presented an ultra violet dream that was in high contrast to the Hunterian Museum that housed the show. Shiny cocoon coats were whipped up in patchwork prints, with cooler-then-thou tee shirt dresses and floating full length chiffon skirts that hinted at the legs striding underneath. Biting orange, lime green and violet were the saccharine shades that dominated the collection, with an inky black occasionally interjecting. Skirts lengths then rose to the thigh, trimmed in flouncing circular ruffles as the models closed what was a very sweet finish to Day One, London Fashion Week.


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